Cashmerette - Marston Raincoat
The Marston Raincoat is a fully lined raincoat with cup sizes C-H for a comfortable fit. Features hood with optional brim, double-layer cuffs with ribbing, and internal drawstring for shaping.
Cover up without compromise with the Marston Raincoat! Keep dry all season long without squashing your bust, thanks to darts in cup sizes C-H which are included in this fully-lined all-weather coat.
Featuring a full-coverage hood with optional brim, double-layer cuffs with cozy knit ribbing, and an internal waist drawstring for shaping, the Marston is an advanced level project you’ll love to sew and wear.
Finished with snaps on the zipper flap, patch pockets and back vents, you’ll achieve a professional look, knowing you can rely on Cashmerette design for a beautiful fit for your curves.
Cashmerette Club Pattern available only with a Cashmerette Club Subscription.
FABRIC AND NOTIONS
Raincoat Main Fabric:
PUL / Polyurethane Laminate Fabric from Noosa Fabric Co in Australia. It has a slight stretch.
When tested, the water beaded but did moisten the outer surface of the fabric while the inside stayed dry.
Designed for diaper covers it was hard to find a print I liked that was available as a 4 metre continuous length. The fabric itself was excellent quality, weight and drape for this project.
Lining: Design-40 Mini Black Checks on Royal Blue from Homecraft Textiles.
Snaps: Hemline Anorak/Jacket Snaps With Tool Nickel - 15mm from Homecraft Textiles.
Waist and bottom drawstring elastic 4mm and hood elastic 2mm: Tricia’s Discount Fabrics
Rainbow Cord toggles in 3 sizes: Cams Cords.
Cord ends: Shein
Iron on waterproofing tape: HQ seam sealing tape 22mm hot melt from eBay. 10m was enough for 1 and a half coats.
Interfacing: Universal Interfacing from Spotlight
PUL / Polyurethane Laminate Fabric from Noosa Fabric Co in Australia. It has a slight stretch.
When tested, the water beaded but did moisten the outer surface of the fabric while the inside stayed dry.
Designed for diaper covers it was hard to find a print I liked that was available as a 4 metre continuous length. The fabric itself was excellent quality, weight and drape for this project.
Lining: Design-40 Mini Black Checks on Royal Blue from Homecraft Textiles.
Snaps: Hemline Anorak/Jacket Snaps With Tool Nickel - 15mm from Homecraft Textiles.
Waist and bottom drawstring elastic 4mm and hood elastic 2mm: Tricia’s Discount Fabrics
Rainbow Cord toggles in 3 sizes: Cams Cords.
Cord ends: Shein
Iron on waterproofing tape: HQ seam sealing tape 22mm hot melt from eBay. 10m was enough for 1 and a half coats.
Interfacing: Universal Interfacing from Spotlight
Fit changes
Using the fit Clinic instructions from the book "Ahead of the Curve" by Jenny Rushmore, I did a wide back adjustment, adding 3” across the shoulder blades to my raincoat.
Using the fit Clinic instructions from the book "Ahead of the Curve" by Jenny Rushmore, I did a wide back adjustment, adding 3” across the shoulder blades to my raincoat.
I made a size 22 G cup to allow me to wear layers underneath.
I am in the process of making another Marston Raincoat in a petrol colour for a family member. Some of the step by step photos are from the making of that raincoat because it is a solid colour and easier to see.
Design Changes
I changed the original design to suit my personal needs.POCKETS
LOWER POCKETS
I didn’t use the patch pockets from the pattern, instead I made diagonal welt pockets on the lower front with a reverse facing flap.I drafted a new pocket bag that is secured to the garment at the front edge and the hemline. It was not sewn to the waistline because I didn't want to add more bulk to this seam as it is meant to gather up.
The drafted lower front pocket bag with a facing of the main fabric attached.
The pocket bag facing has been sewn to the main fabric lower front, the opening has been cut and snipped into the corners then turned through to the wrong side and pressed.
The right side of the lower front with the new opening.
The opening for the pocket has been topstitched
The inside pocket bag for this raincoat was cut from the left over printed fabric from my first raincoat
The wrong side of the raincoat with he contrasting pocket bag showing
The inverted contrasting pocket shield was sewn so it covers the opening preventing rain from getting in.
The lower front pocket opening on raincoat
UPPER POCKETS
I also added a vertical welt pocket with a waterproof zip on the front left breast.
To facilitate the new upper pocket, I added a horizontal seam to the upper front pattern piece, just above the pocket welt opening.
The idea was to create a horizontal seam that I could pipe with the reflective piping and have a seam to anchor the pocket bag too.
I did a test run by cutting an opening in a scrap piece of the printed fabric and ironing the seam allowance to the inside.
I then clipped the zipper to the fabric, adding a zipper shield at the top.
I cut the same opening on my coat
pressed the seam allowance back carefully
Sewed the zipper in place from the right side, holding it in place temporarily with scotch tape.
The zipper is a waterproof zip with the spiral teeth on the inside, the tape has a reflective iridescent quality.
I then applied the waterproof tap to the bond and finish the seam. This method didn't use a facing.
I cut 2 altered upper left front panels from my printed fabric, sewed the bust darts in both pieces and added the waterproofing tape. Once the pocket opening had been inserted I put the second upper front behind the outer one, right side facing out and sewed them together.
The pocket bag therefore goes all the way across to my armpit.
ZIPPER FLAP
Because I added the waterproof breast pocket on the left side I had to change the side the zipper flap was facing from the right to the left side. The zipper shield would have covered the pocket and the snaps would have sit on top of it.
While I was at it, I moved the snaps on the zipper flap so they were internal instead of being visible from the outside. I used the iron on waterproofing tape to help stabilise each eyelet by ironing a small square onto the placement position.
HOOD
I changed the way the elastic in the hood works on my coat.
On the Cashmerette hood the elastic is adjusted from the lining side
I added an exposed casing to the seam between the hood facing and the hood lining.
The hood elastic threads through the casing, then into eyelets in the hood facing.
The elastic exits the inside of the hood through more eyelets in the outer hood and then goes through the cord toggle, back inside the hood through another eyelet.
The elastic exits the jacket through an opening at the neckline seam which joins the hood to the bodice. You pull the elastic and press the toggle to tighten the hood closed. I put cord ends on the end of the elastic.
The Cashmerette Hood
I added reflective piping to the seams of the centre hood and centre lower back seam and across the front at new seam I added. This gave the hood some more rigidity with the addition of the waterproofing seam tape.
Hood
On my coat, I sewed the lower centre back seam closed and did not do the vent at the hem.
Instead I added eyelets at the side seams of the hem facing, I sewed the toggles in place with a strip of the lining fabric threaded through the slot and stitch them into the horizontal seam joining the facing to the lining.
Instead I added eyelets at the side seams of the hem facing, I sewed the toggles in place with a strip of the lining fabric threaded through the slot and stitch them into the horizontal seam joining the facing to the lining.
Side seam of hem facing with eyelets and toggle
I constructed the garment leaving open part of the lower side seam on the lining so I could turn it inside out. I then stitched a channel along the hemline and threaded through my elastic, poking it out the eyelet, through the toggle and back inside the garment through the second eyelet. The ends of the elastic is anchored at the front facing seam.
WAIST DRAWSTRING TO WAIST ELASTIC
The only change I made to the waist is to change it from a drawstring cord to elastic. I anchored my toggle to the garment and left the end of the elastic outside the garment. I added another cord end to make it tidy.
"I'm a Cashmerette Club collaborator and received a year of All Access membership in return for trying this pattern."
While I didn’t receive this specific pattern complimentary, I was approached to write this review and another one to come, in exchange for a years subscription to the Cashmerette Club.
While I didn’t really need another raincoat as I had bought a very expensive one, two months before for a trip to New Zealand, I decided to make my own to see how much better the bust darts would fit for a full busted person.
I spent $285.15 AUD on materials for both raincoats. A years subscription to the club is valued at $195 USD = $294.86 (AUD) at the time I wrote this review.
And I still have to make the other pattern up yet!
While I didn’t really need another raincoat as I had bought a very expensive one, two months before for a trip to New Zealand, I decided to make my own to see how much better the bust darts would fit for a full busted person.
I spent $285.15 AUD on materials for both raincoats. A years subscription to the club is valued at $195 USD = $294.86 (AUD) at the time I wrote this review.
And I still have to make the other pattern up yet!
There are also other collaborator perks that come with this opportunity as I have done it in the past.