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The Cashmerette pattern company was created for women with curves, Jenny Rushmore has previously written a book 'Ahead of the Curve' also with patterns. See my review of that book on this blog. That book has lots of fitting techniques, images of people wearing garments that don't fit them properly and explanations of how to fix the issues with the garments.This book however is designed for the beginner, even though I am not a beginner I bought this book for the patterns.
I like to hack and redesign patterns and it is very helpful to start with a basic pattern that fits well. The Cashmerette block used to design all their garments in the 12-32 range, is very close to my personal shape so it is perfect for me as a starting point. That is the reason I bought this book, to access the 2 dresses, top, pants, skirt and jacket.
Book Index/Chapter headings
- Introduction
- How to use this book - learn more with videos. There is a play icon when the technique has additional content you can watch.
- My sewing story - Jenny Rushmore learned to sew because she could never find cloths to fit in styles and fabric she liked. Regardless if you can find RTW clothes that fit making your own gives you so many more options.
- Get the right mindset: this book is designed for the ultimate beginner to start with a simple garment and get a wearable result. Even if you have never sewn before everything you need to make a basic top for example is outlined.
Chapter 1: Get prepared
Talks about buying your first sewing machine and what features you would need from a basic machine. Also talks about shopping in store, online and second hand for machine and explains the worth of overlockers (sergers) for beginners.
Toolbox sewing essentials, all the kit that will help you sew your garment. Must haves list and nice to have list. This is a great starter for beginners as there are lots of tools to help you sew but what do you really need to just get started.
- All about sewing patterns: talks about different types , how to choose a style of garment that suits your needs and level of sewing skill.
Understanding sewing patterns and instructions, preparing patterns both tissue and PDF.
Detailed explanation of the symbols and information found on patterns. There is a comparison section showing the illustration next to a physical fabric example of the illustration so you can see what it looks like in the fabric. This makes so much sense as illustrations never look exactly like a fabric version.
- Sizing: Jenny talks about the sizing in a way to make everyone of any size comfortable to measure themselves and choose the size that will work for them.
Step by step pictures of Jenny demonstrating how to measure yourself accurately .
Jenny talks about ease and why it matters.
- all about fabric and notions: talks about woven, knit, fibre types and how to choose the right one for the pattern. Drape, pre washing and interfacings also covered.
- Making a trial garment: why making a trial garment is a good idea and how to do it so you get the result you need then reviewing the fit.
- Basic pattern adjustment: this book is designed for beginners so the fit adjustments are basic like lengthening and shortening, grading between sizes.
- Learning to sew with disabilities and chronic illness
Chapter 2: Sewing Skills
- Get ready to sew
- preparing to use your sewing machine
- cutting and making: layout fabric and pattern with examples and tips and how to transfer the pattern marks to the fabric.
Skill 1: Joining pieces: pinning, sewing seams on the straight or curve using stretch or woven fabrics. Corners, basting, stay stitching, topstitching, edge stitching, under stitching, hand sewing and stitch in the ditch.
All with pictures and explanations.
Skill 2: Pressing: Why taking the time to press as you go delivers a much better and more finished looking garment.
Skill 3: Adding shape: Darts, Gathering and Princess Seams.
how to with step by step.
Skill 4: Finishing Edges: different finishes for the seam allowance on knit and woven fabrics. Hemming basics.
Skill 5: Adding Fastenings: Buttonholes and invisible zippers.
Chapter 3: Patterns.
all sizes have cup options C/D, E/F & G/H.
US 12 - 32
UK 16 - 36
EU 44 - 64
Sew along video for each pattern.
General sewing guidelines
MONTVALE DRESS & TUNIC
This swingy, breezy woven dress and tunic comes with sleeveless and drop-sleeved options, and has side-seams pockets. The drop-sleeved tunic is the ideal first garment to make.
Has back waist darts, was it facing and topstitched hem.
Recommended Fabric: light to mid-weight woven like cotton twill, rayon, wool gaberdine, linen or chambray.
ARDLEY PANTS
These elasticated-waist pants with straight legs and a drawstring are so versatile: use fun jersey for PJs or heavier fabrics such as Ponte or French Terry for a trend athleisure look. Pocket optional.
Topstitched waistband and hem.
Recommended fabric: mid-weight knit fabric such as rayon Ponte or French Terry, with at least 20%stretch. Lighter-weight fabric such as bamboo jersey will also work for a more casual look (like Panama pants).
FAIRFAX JACKETS
Finally, a quilted jacket designed for bigger boobs. The Fairfax can be made from pre-quilted fabric, but this book will also teach you how to quilt your own, along with how to finish the patch pockets and curved edges with a gorgeous contrast binding.
Bust darts, lined.
Recommended Fabric: Outer and lining - light to mid-weight woven fabric such as cotton lawn, linen, flannel chambray.
ELMLEY DRESS
Showcase your new sewing skills with the Elmey, a sophisticated sheath dress with sleeveless or flutter sleeve variations and a full lining. Make the dress of your dreams for the office - or even your next evening event.
Bust and waist darts, lining and invisible zip.
Recommended Fabric: main fabric - light to mid-weight fabric such as wool suiting, cotton poplin, linen or jacquard.
Lining lightweight fabric such as Bemberg lining.
Sewing The Curves comes in hardback with an envelope attached to the back that contains the printed patterns. This envelope holding the patterns is a better version from the first published book. I feel the envelope will hold up better over its lifetime.
This book has excellent written instructions, diagrams and colour photos throughout.
There are a series of accompanying videos which will show you many of the sewing skills and do a full 'sew along' of all the patterns. The book has the link to access these.
Absolutely a must have for the beginner with the patterns and step by step written instructions and the tutorial videos. A great gift for the first time sewist regardless of their size and shape.
As of April 2024 I have made one garment using this book. I started with the Elmley dress as a base for my design. You can see the making of my sequin Elmley dress in a future post.
MONTVALE DRESS & TUNIC
MONTVALE DRESS & TUNIC
This swingy, breezy woven dress and tunic comes with sleeveless and drop-sleeved options, and has side-seams pockets. The drop-sleeved tunic is the ideal first garment to make.
Bust darts, neck facing and topstitched hem.
Recommended Fabric: light to mid-weight woven like cotton, voile, linen and rayon.
Recommended Fabric: light to mid-weight woven like cotton, voile, linen and rayon.
RANDOLPH SKIRT
RANDOLPH SKIRT
A chic wrap skirt in midi or knee length, the Randolph can be made for any season depending on the fabric you use.
A chic wrap skirt in midi or knee length, the Randolph can be made for any season depending on the fabric you use.
Has back waist darts, was it facing and topstitched hem.
Recommended Fabric: light to mid-weight woven like cotton twill, rayon, wool gaberdine, linen or chambray.
EUSTIS TOP
EUSTIS TOP
The Rustic is a curve-friendly T-Shirt with elevated options! Make you Eustis with a puffy gathered sleeve and elasticated wrists, or a create a more classic look with the straight sleeve in short or long length.
Neck binding & stretch topstitched hem.
Recommended Fabric: Light to mid-weight knit like rayon or cotton jersey with at leasts 20% crosswise stretch.
The Rustic is a curve-friendly T-Shirt with elevated options! Make you Eustis with a puffy gathered sleeve and elasticated wrists, or a create a more classic look with the straight sleeve in short or long length.
Neck binding & stretch topstitched hem.
Recommended Fabric: Light to mid-weight knit like rayon or cotton jersey with at leasts 20% crosswise stretch.
ARDLEY PANTS
These elasticated-waist pants with straight legs and a drawstring are so versatile: use fun jersey for PJs or heavier fabrics such as Ponte or French Terry for a trend athleisure look. Pocket optional.
Topstitched waistband and hem.
Recommended fabric: mid-weight knit fabric such as rayon Ponte or French Terry, with at least 20%stretch. Lighter-weight fabric such as bamboo jersey will also work for a more casual look (like Panama pants).
FAIRFAX JACKETS
Finally, a quilted jacket designed for bigger boobs. The Fairfax can be made from pre-quilted fabric, but this book will also teach you how to quilt your own, along with how to finish the patch pockets and curved edges with a gorgeous contrast binding.
Bust darts, lined.
Recommended Fabric: Outer and lining - light to mid-weight woven fabric such as cotton lawn, linen, flannel chambray.
ELMLEY DRESS
Showcase your new sewing skills with the Elmey, a sophisticated sheath dress with sleeveless or flutter sleeve variations and a full lining. Make the dress of your dreams for the office - or even your next evening event.
Bust and waist darts, lining and invisible zip.
Recommended Fabric: main fabric - light to mid-weight fabric such as wool suiting, cotton poplin, linen or jacquard.
Lining lightweight fabric such as Bemberg lining.
*
Sewing The Curves comes in hardback with an envelope attached to the back that contains the printed patterns. This envelope holding the patterns is a better version from the first published book. I feel the envelope will hold up better over its lifetime.
It is also available as a digital download with printable patterns.
This book has excellent written instructions, diagrams and colour photos throughout.
There are a series of accompanying videos which will show you many of the sewing skills and do a full 'sew along' of all the patterns. The book has the link to access these.
Absolutely a must have for the beginner with the patterns and step by step written instructions and the tutorial videos. A great gift for the first time sewist regardless of their size and shape.
You can see many images of completed garments on the Cashmerette website
As of April 2024 I have made one garment using this book. I started with the Elmley dress as a base for my design. You can see the making of my sequin Elmley dress in a future post.
