Cashmerette - Ames Jeans - 4101

 

Cashmerette - Ames Jeans 

As part of my entry into the sewing.patternreview.com 'Endless Combinations' contest I made the Ames Jeans in metallic stretch denim. 

June 1st - June 30th 2022

The goal of this contest is to build a wardrobe of garments that will never be wardrobe orphans. Each piece will always have something it can be worn with! Start with one garment, and then each subsequent garment you sew must coordinate with the PREVIOUS garment. No chance of orphan garments with this method! 

EXAMPLE I
1. Sew item A - Blouse.
2. Next item B - Jacket, which must co-ordinate and work with Blouse A.
3. Item C - Skirt, must co-ordinate with Jacket B. It does not have to work with Blouse A - if it does that’s a bonus for you!
4. Item D must work with Skirt C.

Create and sew an "Endless Combination" wardrobe of at least four items that coordinate in the way described above. (A+B, B+C, C+D). There is no upper limit to the number of items in your Endless Combination. 

Make a date with denim in the classic and versatile Cashmerette Ames Jeans: stretch jeans exclusively designed for curves.

When it comes to jeans, perfect fit is a must. Get the look you love by customizing your pattern using our interchangeable “apple” and “pear” pelvis pieces, and skinny and straight leg options.

These 5-pocket wardrobe essentials are the real deal, with features like rivets, belt loops and a fly front. And hold the style together with a high rise, and a pocket stay for secret smooth shaping.

Sizing 12-28 paper pattern 12-32 PDF Pattern with interchangeable pelvis (apple or pear fit) and leg (skinny or straight) pieces for all sizes.

Fabric:suggested fabric is Main: 9.5 - 12 oz stretch denim with at least 2% lycra. Lining: non-stretch cotton. Interfacing: knit (stretch) or woven fusible, depending on preference for stretch in waistband. 

When I took my measurements I was a pair shape and it said to use the size 16. I traced that size off onto paper but after comparing it to my RTW jeans I decided it was too big. 

I ended up gambling on the size and made my first toile a size 12. I like very firm fitting stretch jeans so the 12 gives me that style. I usually buy size 14 RTW jeans.

TOILE

When making pants it is always a good idea to make a test sample of the pattern before committing to your fashion fabric. For these jeans I did this firstly by using a second hand pair of jeans from the Opp shop. 

For my first toile I wanted to use stretch denim but didn’t want to spend much money as I was dubious if the pattern would fit me without alterations. So I went with a pair of stretch jeans in a size 26 I bought at the opp shop. I unpicked the seams and cut my test run pair from these. I used the waistband and the back pockets of these jeans instead of the pattern to make the process quicker.

I also used an off cut of my goal fabric, silver stretch denim, for the pocket lining and facing. 

I sewed these up according to the instructions but didn’t finish the inside edges and used orange topstitching so I could see the lines easily.

This worked a treat and my first toile fit! 

 

I used my metallic stretch denim for the pockets to see how it would go

Second test run was from Bengaline. This fabric was on sale at $8m and while I’m not in love with the print I will wear it as it’s a fun quirky print. I wanted to make the Ames again from scratch with all the sewing techniques as the pattern dictated. For these jeans I lengthened the pelvis 1/2" and the lower leg 1". I also drafted off a slightly wider waist band for a try to use two jeans buttons on the waist closure.

The bengaline is very stretchy and tends to warp a bit when sewn but its not noticeable the worn. I couldn't find any stretch interfacing that was stretchy enough so I left it off. This made the waistband quite soft and floppy.

After I wore these jeans for a day I decided to add some non roll elastic inside the waistband. I used pliers to remove the jeans buttons from the waistband. I threaded the elastic into the band and secured it at the ends by sewing it to the waistband under the front belt loops which hides the stitching. This gave the floppy waistband the support it needed and the newly applied jeans buttons are much more stable. 

I also reinforced the buttonholes as they were stretching by hand stitched thick thread on the wrong side like a corded buttonhole would have.

I used a thick tan topstitch thread of the details. On the pocket stay I used a very firm power mesh. I chose this because I wanted stretch but with supportive firmness. This worked great and helps support the tummy. 

I also moved the back pocket position up.

Goal pair 

Metallic silver stretch denim from DK Fabrics, Adelaide. 

Machine Pre-washed in warm water because that’s how I intend to wash them as a garment.
Pelvis lengthened 1/2" and the lower leg lengthened 1"
I used power mesh for the pocket lining instead of the non stretch cotton as the pattern suggests as I wanted a firm tummy hugging finish. I have read other review saying the cotton makes the pants too tight. 

I also used the power mesh in the waistband instead of interfacing. I couldn't find suitable stretch interfacing so I had the bright idea of using the power mesh instead. 

power mesh pockets

I auditioned lots of different colours for the topstitching threads including light, mid and dark grey, black , lavender, purple and navy. The greys and black were really hard to see on the metallic fabric so I went with the navy because the blue showed up better. 

For the back pockets I looked up stitch design ideas for back pockets and went with a swirl heart pattern. 

pocket topstitching design

To transfer the design to the pocket I used carbon paper and transferred it onto the wrong side of the cut out pocket first. I sewed the first swirl from the wrong side of the denim with black thread on the top and bobbin using straight stitch. Once this was done I flipped the pocket to the right side and I echo stitched the design following the black stitching with a line of lavender thread and then another line in a light grey thread.

This fabric has a tiny bit less stretch than my two previous fabrics so these jeans are a bit tight around the seat. Because of this the jeans cut into my bum across the back yoke seam. To fix this issue I had to unpick the back yoke and then reattach it using a stretch straight stitch for the seam line and the same stretch straight stitch in the topstitching thread. This solved the problem of the horizontal yoke seam not stretching as much as the surrounding fabric and cutting into my bum. 

I aded the rivets which was super easy.  

Ames Jeans with Tobin Sweater